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"fashion semiotics"

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"fashion semiotics"

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Atmosphere as language: Deconstructing the staging in fashion photography
Beatriz Guerrero González-Valerio
EPISTÉMÈ 2025;35:3.   Published online September 30, 2025
DOI: https://doi.org/10.38119/cacs.2025.35.3
Fashion photography, given its communicative function and rhetorical intentionality, constitutes the ideal vehicle for the transmission and externalization of emerging stylistic trends. The creations go beyond simple garment representation, enriching and enhancing them through visual, narrative and symbolic mechanisms. The objective of this article is to analyse the role of atmosphere and staging as crucial elements in fashion photography during the 20th century. Through a qualitative approach that combines bibliographic review and visual analysis of works by A. De Meyer, I. Penn and D. Turbeville, the evolution of atmospheric strategies from the 1920s to the 1970s is examined. It is concluded that atmosphere not only defines visual narrative but generates different emotional typologies ranging from the romantic and sophisticated to the minimalist and intimist.
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Semiotics of the Manila Shawl (mantón de Manila): From Historical Transformations to its Present Identity Function
Ana Velasco Molpeceres, Carmen Baniandrés, María Prieto Muñiz
EPISTÉMÈ 2025;35:2.   Published online September 30, 2025
DOI: https://doi.org/10.38119/cacs.2025.35.2
This article examines the Manila shawl (mantón de Manila) as a semiotic object in motion, whose trajectory—from Chinese silk to contemporary Spanish fashion—offers insights into processes of cultural hybridization, early globalization, and identity re-signification. Through a historical and semiotic analysis, it highlights how the material transformations of the shawl (embroidery, colors, fringes, uses) correspond to shifts in its symbolic value: from colonial exoticism to national myth, from festive accessory to costumbrista emblem, and from traditional garment to a key resource within the cultural and fashion industries. The study also includes contemporary examples (Juana Martín, Palomo Spain, Rosalía, Queen Letizia), showing how the shawl articulates tradition and modernity, authenticity and market, nationalism and cosmopolitanism. In conclusion, the Manila shawl is not only a hybrid object but also a sign in constant re-signification, a cultural “super-iconeme” that condenses collective imaginaries while maintaining its relevance in the 21st century.
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This paper explores the semiotic significance of attire in Hulu's series The Handmaid’s Tale, examining how clothing functions as a tool of power and control within the series. It further investigates the role of uniforms in contemporary society and draws parallels between modern fashion practices and subtle forms of repression and power exerted over women. By analyzing the interplay between fashion, power, and gender, this study aims to highlight the enduring impact of clothing as a medium of socio-political expression and control.
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