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"semiotics"

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The Evolution of Socio-Cultural Clothing Codes and Their Impact on Contemporary Fashion in Iran
Marzieh Athari Nikazm, Sohrab Ahmadi
EPISTÉMÈ 2025;35:5.   Published online September 30, 2025
DOI: https://doi.org/10.38119/cacs.2025.35.5
The Achaemenid Empire, which flourished from the 6th to the 4th century BCE, is known for its diverse and sophisticated cultural practices, particularly in terms of clothing. The Achaemenid period saw a complex system of dress codes that signified not only social status but also cultural and ethnic identity. Clothing in this era was characterized by richly adorned garments, often made from fine fabrics like wool and linen, with intricate patterns and colors. The aristocracy wore elaborate costumes, such as the "kandys," a long, flowing robe, while commoners had simpler attire. These clothes were used as symbols of power, ethnicity, and allegiance to the ruling elite. With the fall of the Achaemenid Empire, Iran's clothing codes evolved through successive historical phases, but the influence of the Achaemenid era remained significant in the cultural fabric of the region. Islamic and later dynasties introduced new attire styles, yet they often incorporated elements from earlier Persian traditions. Our problematic is: "How have the socio-cultural clothing codes of the Achaemenid era evolved over time, and what is their impact on contemporary fashion in Iran?" This problem explores the historical transformation of Persian clothing styles from the Achaemenid period to the present day, focusing on how these ancient codes have influenced modern Iranian fashion, especially in the context of cultural identity, social status, and political change. In contemporary Iran, the socio-cultural codes of dress have undergone significant transformations due to political and religious influences, particularly after the 1979 revolution. While modern Iranian fashion is heavily shaped by Islamic principles, there has been a resurgence of interest in pre-Islamic Persian history, including Achaemenid styles. Contemporary Iranian designers are revisiting Achaemenid motifs, using them to create a fusion of traditional Persian designs with modern sensibilities. The modern reinterpretation of these ancient dress codes serves not only as a form of cultural expression but also as a statement of national identity and resistance to Western influence. Thus, the legacy of Achaemenid fashion continues to shape Iranian clothing codes, bridging the ancient and contemporary through a blend of cultural pride and modern creativity.
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The signs of Brazilian fashion in Dorival Caymmi's Bahian songbook
Bruno Pompeu, Clotilde Perez
EPISTÉMÈ 2025;35:4.   Published online September 30, 2025
DOI: https://doi.org/10.38119/cacs.2025.35.4
The aim of this text is to explore conceptually, within the specific spectrum of song, the possible approximations between fashion and literature. In addition, it aims to reveal the meanings attributed to certain items of clothing in Dorival Caymmi's work; and, as a consequence, to propose a reflection on the participation of the fashion system, clothing, material culture - and consumption - and the song itself as constituent, defining and dynamising elements of Brazilian culture. To this end, we began with a conceptual overview of the symbolic relationships between music and literature, followed by an analysis of the songs ‘O que é que a baiana tem?’, ‘Vestido de bolero’, ‘Requebre que eu dou um doce’, “Maracangalha” and ‘A vizinha do lado’. The analyses were able to highlight the dense meanings of fashion and its privileged place in the formation of the Brazilian imagination, as well as being a source of inspiration in artistic, musical and literary productions.
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Atmosphere as language: Deconstructing the staging in fashion photography
Beatriz Guerrero González-Valerio
EPISTÉMÈ 2025;35:3.   Published online September 30, 2025
DOI: https://doi.org/10.38119/cacs.2025.35.3
Fashion photography, given its communicative function and rhetorical intentionality, constitutes the ideal vehicle for the transmission and externalization of emerging stylistic trends. The creations go beyond simple garment representation, enriching and enhancing them through visual, narrative and symbolic mechanisms. The objective of this article is to analyse the role of atmosphere and staging as crucial elements in fashion photography during the 20th century. Through a qualitative approach that combines bibliographic review and visual analysis of works by A. De Meyer, I. Penn and D. Turbeville, the evolution of atmospheric strategies from the 1920s to the 1970s is examined. It is concluded that atmosphere not only defines visual narrative but generates different emotional typologies ranging from the romantic and sophisticated to the minimalist and intimist.
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Semiotics of the Manila Shawl (mantón de Manila): From Historical Transformations to its Present Identity Function
Ana Velasco Molpeceres, Carmen Baniandrés, María Prieto Muñiz
EPISTÉMÈ 2025;35:2.   Published online September 30, 2025
DOI: https://doi.org/10.38119/cacs.2025.35.2
This article examines the Manila shawl (mantón de Manila) as a semiotic object in motion, whose trajectory—from Chinese silk to contemporary Spanish fashion—offers insights into processes of cultural hybridization, early globalization, and identity re-signification. Through a historical and semiotic analysis, it highlights how the material transformations of the shawl (embroidery, colors, fringes, uses) correspond to shifts in its symbolic value: from colonial exoticism to national myth, from festive accessory to costumbrista emblem, and from traditional garment to a key resource within the cultural and fashion industries. The study also includes contemporary examples (Juana Martín, Palomo Spain, Rosalía, Queen Letizia), showing how the shawl articulates tradition and modernity, authenticity and market, nationalism and cosmopolitanism. In conclusion, the Manila shawl is not only a hybrid object but also a sign in constant re-signification, a cultural “super-iconeme” that condenses collective imaginaries while maintaining its relevance in the 21st century.
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Dressing the sign: Semiotic analysis of attire and fashion in the Universe of Tintin
Marina Bargón García
EPISTÉMÈ 2025;35:1.   Published online September 30, 2025
DOI: https://doi.org/10.38119/cacs.2025.35.1
This article examines clothing in The Adventures of Tintin from a semiotic perspective, considering dress as a system of signs embedded in the visual logic of comics. Building on Pierre Fresnault-Deruelle’s pioneering studies (1976, 1999, 2002, 2006, 2012) and later contributions by scholars such as Groensteen, Marion, and Floch, the analysis explores how the aesthetics of the ligne claire transform garments into both narrative and symbolic operators. The results identify seven functional categories of dress—core attire, everyday wear, professional/functional outfits, disguises, cultural costumes, ceremonial garments, and altered clothing—which serve as identity anchors, indicators of action, or markers of cultural otherness. Tintin’s consistent base attire ensures visual coherence, while subtle variations introduce narrative nuance and contextual adaptation. The study concludes that clothing in Hergé’s work is far from decorative; it functions as a central semiotic device whose stability and transformations reinforce the character’s iconicity and his status as a timeless cultural hero.
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This study analyzed The Curious Case of Benjamin Button by integrating corporeal narratology with Greimas’s semiotic square, examining how temporality and identity are constructed and deconstructed through the body. Benjamin’s body serves as a semiotic field where oppositions like “youth/old age” and “life/death” are generated, clash, and collapse. The semiotic square revealed how these binary structures become unsustainable and the internal disintegration of the semiotic system, highlighting both the model's utility and limitations in complex corporeal narratives. Corporeal narratology emphasized the body's role as an active agent that embodies and enacts the collapse of meaning, contributing to the disintegration of narrative structure. Ultimately, the analysis demonstrated that body, time, and identity are core semiotic forces that uphold and undo narrative structures.
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This paper explores the semiotic significance of attire in Hulu's series The Handmaid’s Tale, examining how clothing functions as a tool of power and control within the series. It further investigates the role of uniforms in contemporary society and draws parallels between modern fashion practices and subtle forms of repression and power exerted over women. By analyzing the interplay between fashion, power, and gender, this study aims to highlight the enduring impact of clothing as a medium of socio-political expression and control.
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Korean dramas (K-dramas) have emerged as powerful cultural artifacts that not only entertain but also shape societal perceptions of Fashion, body image, and identity. Fashion in K-dramas operates as a semiotic medium of cultural storytelling, weaving together traditional Korean heritage with contemporary global trends. These audiovisual narratives play a crucial role in constructing and circulating culturally specific ideals of beauty and bodily norms. This article investigates how Fashion and body image are represented in K-dramas and how these representations are interpreted across different cultural contexts. Through a semiotic lens, it explores the mechanisms by which K-dramas mediate notions of identity, desirability, and belonging, revealing the tensions and harmonies between local traditions and globalized aesthetics.
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Semiotics of Fashion: Desire and Resistance, All Things Considered
Giulia Adriana Ceriani
EPISTÉMÈ 2025;34:2.   Published online June 30, 2025
DOI: https://doi.org/10.38119/cacs.2025.34.2
This reflection aims to explore the foundations, limitations, and necessity of fashion semiotics, beyond the inertia that still binds it to a mere reinterpretation of Barthesian legacy. On the contrary, fashion semiotics reveals its compelling and contemporary relevance when it is considered in light of the explanatory power granted to a language too often relegated—for commercial reasons or societal conventions—to a marginal or reductionist role, rather than being acknowledged as an active part of present-day expression in all its forms. These include, notably, gender relations, political implications, the dynamics of possible and impossible relations in the context of digital interfaces, the dialectic between conjunctive tensions and the condemnation to disjunction. Desire and resistance will be the two key terms guiding us through this unaligned reinterpretation.
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Fashion Semiotics: State of the Art
José María Paz Gago
EPISTÉMÈ 2025;34:1.   Published online June 30, 2025
DOI: https://doi.org/10.38119/cacs.2025.34.1
Once the failure of classical fashion Semiotics (1960-1980) was certified, as it conceived the fashion phenomenon as a system devoid of meaning (Barthes), incapable of communicating (Lotman) and unbearable (Volli), the great designers and marketing strategists began a new period, that of the Pragmatics of Fashion (1980-2000), committed to resemiotizing the system by resorting to prestigious referents for their collections (the history of art and culture) and to the brand, defined as a hypericonema loaded with powerful literal, imaginary and psycho-emotional meanings (Paz Gago). This stage of fashion semiotics is described by Floch and Calefato, scholars of fashion brands as written text, since it is the proper name of the great fashion designers that has become a brand. Both agree on the need to move beyond the more linguistic stage of the discipline to develop a visual semiotics or a plastic semiotics that serves to analyze fashion as an essentially visual phenomenon. With the new millennium, in line with the new digital technologies that colonize and are colonized by fashion, the Neosemiotics of fashion (2000-2020) emerges, mediated by the stories and reels uploaded to social networks such as Instagram or TikTok, as Bianca Terraciano or Victoria Nannini will analyze. Fashion semiotics faces a new challenge today due to the emergence of Artificial Intelligence, which has already colonized all processes in the fashion system: design creation, pattern making, manufacturing, advertising and marketing campaigns, fashion shows, distribution, and marketing can all be implemented through generative Artificial Intelligence applications. These new technological phenomena respond to the semiotic mode I have called Machination, as opposed to the Representation and Simulation characteristic of classic analog and digital technologies.
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Grammatology in the Era of Digital Writing
Hidetaka Ishida
EPISTÉMÈ 2025;33:4.   Published online March 31, 2025
DOI: https://doi.org/10.38119/cacs.2025.33.4

This paper investigates Jacques Derrida's notion of grammatology in the context of contemporary digital writing technologies. It critically reassesses Ferdinand de Saussure’s linguistics and his concept of phonocentrism, underscoring phonography’s underestimated role in shaping the epistemological foundations of linguistics. Introducing original concepts such as the "logographic hiatus" and "grammatological polyphony," the paper challenges the limitations inherent in alphabetic linearity, particularly through the analysis of logographic writing systems like Chinese. Drawing on recent advancements in cognitive neuroscience, notably Stanislas Dehaene’s Neuronal Recycling Hypothesis, the paper proposes a neuro-grammatological framework. It argues that the human brain repurposes pre-existing neural circuits for reading, aligning visual symbols with ecological and neurological constraints. Further, the study addresses Derrida’s concept of "Mondialatinisation," examining the implicit cultural hegemony perpetuated through Latin-alphabet-based digital input methods (e.g., Romaji, Pinyin). This critical analysis highlights the subtle yet profound epistemological and cultural implications of imposing phonocentric and alphabetic models on traditionally logographic languages. Finally, the paper underscores the unresolved civilizational tensions emerging from the digital transformation of writing, emphasizing the urgent need for interdisciplinary dialogue bridging linguistics, semiotics, neuroscience, and cultural studies

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Machination: Semiotics of IArt. Dance and Artificial Intelligence
José María Paz Gago
EPISTÉMÈ 2025;33:3.   Published online March 31, 2025
DOI: https://doi.org/10.38119/cacs.2025.33.3

Multimodal generative Artificial Intelligence is an omnipresent technology in our post-industrial societies, as it has penetrated all areas of daily life, from social and commercial relations to the various fields of science and industry, communication, leisure and culture in general. This is to discuss whether AI is applicable to the field of artistic creation in general and to bodily arts such as dance in particular, taking into account emotional sensitivity and creativity, factors that are difficult to generate by a machine. In this article we will discuss examples of corporal artistic manifestations, in the domain of dance, in which corporality itself is called into question in the face of these interactions with humanized bodies conceived, created and “brought to life” by the magic of generative AI. The learning models developed by different Artificial Intelligence software allow these bodies to dance, model or evolve in scenographic spaces created ad hoc and shared to the point of replacing real dancers.

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Reflections Of Aesthetics In Turkish Television Advertisements
Betül Qanakpmar
EPISTÉMÈ 2024;31:133-150.   Published online September 30, 2024
DOI: https://doi.org/10.38119/cacs.2024.31.7
If we think about aesthetics, we see that there are many definitions and interpretations. With the most well-known definition, there are still comments on aesthetics, which is known as beautiful, useful, and pleasing, and this is normal. Since aesthetics is a pleasant field of study, it opens vast doors for those interested in it. Aesthetic understanding can offer different perspectives according to societies. Aesthetics offers an artistic point of view and awakens emotions by appealing to human beings. Straying from its known purpose and definition, we now see that aesthetics is used in advertisements to make products more attractive by affecting human consciousness. Before showing purchasing behaviour, the buyer looks at whether the product appeals to his/her lifestyle, identity and status as well as appealing to his/her needs and buys or does not buy the product according to these features. For this reason, aesthetic concerns come into play for marketers. As it is known, television commercials are one of the types of advertisements that mobilise the emotions of the audience the most. From this point of view, the use of aesthetics in Turkish television commercials is discussed in this study. Firstly, a general framework of aesthetics is drawn and then the relationship between advertising and aesthetics is emphasised. The study endeavours to understand the appearance, construction and positioning of aesthetics in Turkish television commercials. For this purpose, at the end of the study, the aesthetic appearance of an advertisement film selected by random sampling method is presented.
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Children's drawings are one of the most important productive actions that enable the child to establish relationships with his environment and the outside world. Each picture drawn contains a piece of the child himself. Because he tries to express his inner world, his way of thinking, his relationship with his environment, and any problems he has; through his paintings. Therefore, due to their iconic qualities, they have a semiotic function and enable the child to be recognized and understood by those around him. As a means of communication or a sign that mediates communication, children's drawings also have aesthetic properties. Aesthetic appreciation in children's drawings transcends traditional norms. It's not about technical proficiency but about the purity of expression. A child's artwork often exudes a raw authenticity, unburdened by societal conventions, which resonates deeply with viewers. In this study, we would like to consider the importance of drawing, which is one of the semiotic function areas of communication in children, the aesthetic aspects of drawings, and how children communicate through drawing.
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기타인문학

This article offers an initial sketch of a model, semio-pragmaticism, whose ambition is to enable communication studies to be (re)founded on a common paradigmatically pragmatic and operationally semiotic foundation. Beginning with a review of various currents of thought in CIS and related disciplines that share this pragmatic concern for (re)placing the (communicational) subject at the center of the analytical approach to communication, I propose, on this basis, a fundamental synthetic model of communication conceived from and for the understanding of the communicational subject as the necessary and sufficient yardstick for the understanding of communication.

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